How To Choose The RIGHT Honda CR-V Battery

Cathleen V
Jan 5, 2021

When you’re purchasing a new-to-you vehicle, you want to ensure it will deliver dependable, reliable service. Part of that process is making sure that your Honda CR-V has a good starting battery to turn your engine over. But knowing you need a battery and understanding which one is best is a tough task.

What’s the best battery for a Honda CR-V?

The fifth-generation Honda CR-V takes a 51R battery group size. An AGM battery or a wet flooded battery is recommended, which puts out a minimum of 410 cold cranking amps for both the 1.5L and 2.4L engines.

Blue 2020 Honda CR-V With White Background

What do all these terms mean? Battery groups, OEM, lead acid, aftermarket? It’s okay; keep reading to learn more!

Battery Group Sizes Explained

When you’re looking at replacing your vehicle’s battery, one term you’ll hear is “battery group.” This is nothing more than a reference code for the exterior dimensions of the battery as well as the location of the terminals and its capacity. But why is this so important to your vehicle?

Your CR-V needs the right amount of power to turn the engine over. As well as a certain amount of reserve power that will operate your lights, audio system and other electronics when the engine isn’t running. The simplest replacement option is using another in the same group.

The Battery Council International (BCI) assigns a string of numbers and sometimes a letter for each battery group size. Make sure you use a battery approved for your vehicle, but you may be able to use batteries from different group sizes. Check a replacement guide to find the right ones.

Why is this important? Your vehicle’s hood, frame and fittings are constructed from conductive sheet metal. If a battery is installed that is too tall, the terminals could contact with the underside of your hood. This can cause an electrical short and a possibly dangerous shock potential.

Another safety issue is the size of your CR-V’s battery hold-down. If the battery is too wide, tall or short, the hold-down in your vehicle may not be able to keep the battery from shifting during operation. This can cause shorts, electrical problems or difficulty in starting your vehicle.

If you give careful thought and take precise measurements, you may be able to move to a different battery group size. A good example of this is a construction or emergency response vehicle needing more field capability, in which case a larger deep-cycle battery may work well.

Lead Acid, Lithium-Ion, SLI or Deep Cycle for Your Honda CR-V Battery?

car battery

Once you have the group size, you’ll need to consider the type. Type is determined by the type of chemicals used to store and transport the current. This typically includes one of two categories, lead acid (more economical), or lithium-ion (lasts longer/lighter). Invented in 1859, lead acid batteries are one of the oldest and widely-used rechargeable battery technologies available. The high power density allows it to release a lot of power under demand, like when starting your car. It has several cells with positive and negative plates, electrolytes, and separators.

Lead acid batteries come in gel, AGM, AGM spiral, calcium-calcium, and the popular wet flooded. Their use of lead makes them heavy, think 30 to 50 pounds. They’re more sensitive to drainage. When repeatedly depleted, it causes serious damage that may cause it to fail.

This occurs when complete discharge causes the battery to create lead sulfate. Periodic full charges of the battery help prevent this issue, but they must be stored in a charged state. First produced commercially in the 1970s, lithium-ion batteries were introduced to automotive use in the 2008 Tesla Roadster. Their low comparative weight, at 1/3rd that of comparable lead acids, and high-energy density make them a popular choice for motorcycles, ATVs and sports cars.

In this battery type, the lithium ions move from the negative electrodes to the positive electrodes in discharge, and are returned in charging cycles. Capable of discharging 80% of power before battery depletion, as compared to 30 to 50% of lead acid batteries, output drops more quickly in cold temperatures. Because of this deeper discharge capacity, lithium-ion batteries should last a lifetime. Improper charging may cause individual cells within the battery to fail.

What’s the difference between SLI and deep cycle batteries? Referring to subtypes of lead acid batteries, Starting, Lighting and Ignition (SLI) batteries have limited extra capacity, while deep cycle batteries are made for deeper discharge to prevent battery wear.

OEM vs. Aftermarket: What’s the Difference?

The last thing to consider during your battery selection is aftermarket VS OEM. What’s the difference in these two battery types, and does it really make your CR-V more reliable? The answer is a resounding yes.
There are many differences in the manufacturing process as well. Things like the electrolytes, case thickness, electrode quality, and other issues really matter. Here’s a glance at both types to help you decide.
Generally speaking, Honda’s OEM batteries tend to be of higher quality, but why? Honda wants to be known for making high-quality vehicles that deliver years of dependable service. Not vehicles that require frequent battery changes.
Because of this, manufacturers have a higher rejection rate than aftermarket companies. This is often due to their internal standards, like too much or little of a compound in the electrolyte. As well as anode and cathode capacity differences and other issues that impact battery life.
For this reason, the pros at Vehicle History recommend the higher quality and stronger value of OEM batteries. But this can also cause a serious hit on your pocketbook, about half again as expensive as an aftermarket option.
Aftermarket batteries often meet Honda’s basic specifications. But they may not meet the exact internal standards Honda uses in accepting or rejecting batteries. Though it will work well in your vehicle to begin with, it may have issues arise later.
But what problems are we talking about? Not holding a charge, not starting, and cell failure are some pretty basic ones seen when aftermarket batteries need replaced. However, their 60% lower price tag makes them an acceptable risk for many.

If You Do Go Aftermarket, Here’s What We Suggest

If the pocketbook factor is just too strong to resist, we recommend a couple of specific aftermarket options. The Optima YellowTop AGM dual-purpose battery rocks at 620 cold cranking amps to start you up on the coldest days while providing 98 minutes of reserve power.

For a more traditional SLI battery, Duralast delivers superior starting power in extreme weather while still allowing you to enjoy your favorite electronic toys.

avatar Cathleen V
Cathleen V is an exceptional freelance writer covering hot topics in the automotive world from a gearhead’s perspective. Whether it’s the Mercedes-Benz A-class economy and Jeep ruggedness to Challenger Hellcat and Tesla semi capabilities, you’ll discover outstanding intel and research.
  • Articles
  • chevronRightAlternative
  • How To Choose The RIGHT Honda CR-V Battery