Is your steering not as accurate as it used to be? Are your tires wearing unevenly, even though you know your car is in proper alignment? It might be time for a new front suspension. Luckily, YouTube guru ChrisFix is here to show you how to replace the front suspension in your vehicle.
How do you rebuild the front suspension in your vehicle?
You’ll start with disassembling your current suspension. This means removing the axle nuts, brake calipers, wheel hubs, knuckles, inner and outer tie rods, struts, and axles. You’ll rebuild in reverse order.
Sound complicated? Don’t worry–ChrisFix breaks it down into easy to follow steps. Here, we’ve gone over exactly what he explains in the video in a convenient text format so that you can reference his instructions while you’re working in your car.
Dismantling Your Front Suspension: Step by Step
Step #1
First, safely jack up your car, put on safety glasses, and get ready to do some serious work. You’ll need common hand tools, as well as a ball joint press, slide hammer, and bearing press. Spray the suspension bolts with penetrating fluid to make them easier to remove.
Step #2
Now, remove the axle nut. You’ll need to pound out the surrounding metal to access the nut. Stick a screwdriver into the brake rotor to hold the axle in place, and use a long breaker bar to loosen the axle.
Step #3
Next, you’ll have to remove the brake caliper. Turn the steering wheel to give you access to the bolts.
Follow the brake line, and remove any fasteners that are holding the brake line to the knuckle. After the brake line is free, remove the caliper. Set the caliper on a piece of wood or metal so it’s elevated and not causing any pressure on the brake line.
Step #4
Now, remove the brake rotor. (You may need to hit it with a hammer.)
Step #5
You should then remove the wheel hub using a slide hammer and hub adapter. Fasten the hub adapter to the wheel hub, and attach the slide hammer. You’ll need to use the slide hammer quite a few times to knock the wheel hub loose.
You’ll also have to remove the snap ring from the hub (and you may need to use penetrating fluid help you get it out). Remove the wheel bearing as well (you may need to use penetrating fluid for this, too). Clean out the snap ring channel.
Step #6
Next, you’ll remove the knuckle that holds the bearing in place. You’ll start by removing the upper ball joint. Remove the castle nut, flip it over, and screw it back on to the stud until the base of the nut becomes flush with the stud. Hammer upward until the stud pops out of the knuckle.
Remove the nut, and then remove the entire ball joint. Repeat the process on the lower ball joint, as well as the tie rod ball joint. Remove the entire knuckle from the suspension. Remove the old brake shield from the knuckle, as well as the snap ring and rubber boot from the lower ball joint. Hammer the ball joint out using an impact socket.
Step #7
Now, it’s time to work on the inner and outer tie rod. You’ll need two wrenches and access to the inner tie rod ball joint. Hold the inner tie rod joint in place with one wrench, and use the other wrench to loosen the joint. Fully remove the tie rod. Remove the old boot as well.
Step #8
Removing the strut is next. First, remove the pinch bolt that connects the strut to the metal bracket. Now, remove the bolt that holds the strut to the lower control arm. Under the hood of the car, remove the two fasteners from the top of the strut tower. Push the strut down, go back under the car, and wiggle the strut until it’s free from the other suspension components.
Step #9
Follow the axle to the transmission. Pop the axle out with a pry bar, and have something handy to catch potentially leaky transmission fluid. Fully remove the axle. Finally, loosen the fasteners for the upper and lower control arms, and remove these components as well.
Step #10
Clean the wheel well, and you may also want to paint the well. Clean the knuckle as well, and lightly sand the ball joint and bearing surfaces to remove any grease.
Now, it’s time to repeat each step on the other side, fully preparing you to install your new suspension.
Reconstructing Your Front Suspension, Step by Step
Now that you’ve completed the process of breaking down your front suspension on both sides of your vehicle, it’s time to install your new components so you’re ready to enjoy your comfortable new ride.
Step #1
First, you’ll need to press in the new ball joint and bearing. Here’s a helpful trick: the day before you start this process, put your bearing and ball joint in the freezer. The metal will shrink slightly as it gets cold, making it easier to manipulate.
Step #2
Now, slide the ball joint into the knuckle, and then use your ball joint press. Grease the threads of the press and run the threads through the press a few times so they don’t become stripped as you press the ball joint.
Double-check that you have the right ball joint by ensuring it’s the same size as your old ball joint. Press the joint in as far as you can by hand, and then cover the joint with a hollow cup. Use a ratchet or impact gun to tighten your ball joint press.
You can also use a hammer instead of a ball joint press if you prefer, but this method is more likely to cause damage. Once the ball joint bottoms out and cannot be pressed any further, remove the press.
Step #3
Next, you’ll install a new snap ring / retaining clip. Use your snap ring pliers to slide the snap ring over the ball joint and into place. Take a look at the snap ring, and ensure that it’s fully in place.
Step #4
Next, you’ll install the bearing. In your bearing and ball press kit, find a plate that fits on the outside of the bearing. Just like your ball joint, compare your new bearing to your old bearing to ensure they’re the same size.
Press the bearing into the knuckle as much as possible by hand, and then set up a wrench on the bolt and a ratchet on the nut to fully secure the bearing in place. Use the ratchet to move the bearing into place. Use the snap ring pliers to install the new snap ring into the channel above the bearing, and check that it’s fully in place.
Step #5
Now, it’s time to install your wheel hub. If you had a four-lug hub, you can change to a five-lug hub without issue. Find an adapter from your ball and bearing press kit that matches your hub; slide it over the hub, bearing, and knuckle; and slide a plate that fits over the bearing onto the other side. Thread the press through and tighten until it bottoms out.
Step #6
Installing the inner tie rod is the next step to rebuilding your suspension. Get the old tie rod out, and match up your new tie rod to ensure it’s exactly the same size. Screw the inner tie rod into the outer tie rod together until it matches the old tie rod.
While this won’t give you perfect alignment, it will give you enough to safely make it to the alignment shop. Being careful not to touch the tie nut, unscrew the inner and outer tie rod, and use a paint marker to mark the location of the tie nut. That will let you know exactly where to place the jam nut as you install the tie rod.
Most tie rods come with a retaining clip or pin, and it’s important to pay close attention to the retaining clip or pin that holds the tie rod in. This is essential for safe steering. You may see the end of your tie rod already has thread lock on it for the retaining clip (if you don’t see thread lock, you should place some on the end of the tie rod yourself).
The ears of the retaining clip will fit into two slots on the steering rack. Once that’s in place, tighten the tie rod into the steering rack by hand. Once it’s as hand tight as possible, continue to tighten with two wrenches (one to hold in place, one to tighten). Use a hammer and punch to indent the lock washer / retaining clip into the tie rod.
Step #7
Now, slide a new boot over the tie rod, and use a plastic zip tie to secure the outward-facing end of the boot into place (clip off any excess zip tie). Turn the steering wheel to pull the boot in toward the steering rack, and then place the end of the boot over the end of the steering rack. Use a metal zip tie to secure the boot in place over the steering rack, pull on it, and cut off the excess zip tie.
Add the jam knot over the inner tie rod up to the mark you made with the chalk pen or paint marker, and then begin to twist on your outer tie rod. Finally, tighten the grease fitting by hand, and then snug it down with a wrench. Be sure not to overtighten.
Step #8
Now, it’s time to install the upper control arm. Place your new control arm next to your old control arm, and adjust the top to the same angle as the old control arm. Apply some thread locker onto the threads, and tighten the bolts so your control arm is ready to install.
Place the upper control arm into the strut tower, add some medium-strength thread locker onto the threads, hand tighten both nuts onto the studs, and torque them appropriately.
Step #9
Now, you’ll install the new strut. Place your strut fork onto the new strut. You’ll see a locator notch on the strut that can help you line up the strut fork. Add some thread lock to the bolt, torque appropriately; place the strut into the strut tower, add some removable thread locker to the threads, add bolts, and torque appropriately.
Step #10
Installing the axle is the next step. Clean the end of the axle before you insert it into the transmission. You’ll also need to lubricate the end of the axle with some transmission fluid. Be sure you have a retaining clip at the end of your axle (if you have a new axle, you may need to install one). It can be helpful to use a bungee cord to support the other end of the axle as you guide it into place.
As you guide the axle into place, be sure it goes directly into the transmission and does not touch the outside seal. With a good push, the axle will click right in. If you lost any transmission fluid during axle installation, add fluid to the appropriate level.
Step #11
Now, it’s time to install the control arm. Use silicone grease to coat the bushing. Start with the bolt toward the front of the car. Coat the smooth part of the bolt with grease as well, and add some medium-strength thread lock to the threads. Tighten, but not all the way (we’ll do that later). Repeat this process with the rear bolt.
Step #12
Lastly, you’ll attach the load control arm to the strut fork. Coat the bushing with silicone grease, and install the bolt (don’t forget the silicone grease on the smooth part of the bolt). Add some thread locker on the end, and hand-tighten the end.
Step #13
Now, you need to get the weight of the car onto the front suspension. Safely jack up the car so it begins to lift off the jack stands. Now, it’s time to tighten all the remaining bolts. Start with the strut fork to the control arm bolt. Next, tighten the control arm bolt. Then, add silicone grease to the control arm bushing, and tighten the bolt as much as you can.
Put the vehicle back on the jack stand so you can install your knuckle. Remove the axle nut, and slide the knuckle onto the axle. Place the lower ball joint into the control arm. Push the tie rod into the knuckle, and install the castle nut and cotter pin; torque appropriately. Bend the cotter pin ends around the castle nut, and use your grease gun to add some grease to the fitting.
Step #14
Now, you’ll tighten the lower ball joint. Hand-tighten and torque the castle nut, and insert the cotter pin. Add some medium-strength thread locker to the top of the upper ball joint. Push the ball joint into the knuckle, hand-tighten the nut, and torque appropriately. Add the grease fitting, and use your grease gun to pump some grease into the ball joint.
You’re finished installing your new suspension! Now, you’ll put your brake rotors, calipers, and brake pads back, and secure the brake line. You’re ready to place your wheels on your car, tighten the lug nuts, and install the axle nut (torquing appropriately).
Add the center cap, indent the axle nut into the axle so it locks into place. Put your wheels back on, tighten your lug nuts, and you’re good to go—just take your vehicle to the alignment shop for a full alignment.
Are You Taking Vehicle Maintenance into Your Own Hands?
Be sure to check out Vehicle History to learn more about the nuances of your vehicle. Doing so can save you thousands by providing you with the information you need to make repairs and modifications at home, without the help of a mechanic.
