If you have a vehicle that has bad brakes, it may be time to replace them. Taking in your vehicle for repair can cost a lot of money, but you can do many of these repairs yourself.
What should you know about replacing drum brakes in your vehicle?
ChrisFix shows you how to replace your drum breaks in this video, whether you have a car or a truck.
This video includes:
- Replacing the wheel cylinders
- Replacing the hardware
If you’ve never done it before, don’t be intimidated because it’s actually very simple. Follow along with his steps to learn how to replace your drum brakes and save money on your vehicle’s repairs.
How Long Do Drum Brake Shoes Last?
Anywhere from 50,000 miles to 150,000 miles, depending on how you drive.
What Do You Need to Replace Your Drum Brakes?
You need:
- Eye protection
- A hammer
- Pliers
- Screwdrivers
- Wrenches
- Flare nut wrenches
- Brake drum toolset (optional)
- Two drums
- Four brake shoes
- New springs for the brakes
- New wheel cylinders
- Brake fluid
- Brake cleaner
- Anti-seize
How Do You Replace Drum Brakes?
- To start, lift the vehicle onto jack stands. Lift from the rear differential and axel. Always block the wheels, so that the vehicle cannot roll away. Shake the vehicle to make sure it’s sturdy.
- Now, remove the wheel. This gives you access to the drum. Go inside the vehicle and turn off the emergency brake.
- Removing the drum brake can be tough. If it’s rusted on, grab both sides and wiggle it toward you. If it’s rusted, use a bolt in the open hole. Tighten it with a ratchet until it pops free. If that doesn’t work, then use a hammer and hit both sides of the drum. It will come loose and pop off.
- Clean the brakes with brake cleaner. There is a lot of brake dust inside. Place a bucket underneath to catch the debris.
- Take reference photos. That way, you can refer back to it after you remove the springs.
- Remove the springs. The two top springs will pop out. Use the tool in the kit or pliers and a flathead screwdriver. Remove the self-adjusting cable as well.
- It’s time to remove the brake shoes. To do that, remove the hold-down spring. Put your finger on the spring back to hold it, then twist the spring 90 degrees with the kit tool or vice grips. It will come right out. The pin comes out the back.
- Now, pull the brake shoes out. The parking brake link will also come out. Even if the parking brake is disengaged, the parking brake lever may be attached to one shoe. Disconnect it. Keep the parking brake arm for reassembly.
- Clean the brake backing plate with the brake cleaner.
- Remove the brake cylinder. Take off the brake line with the flare nut wrench. Use a towel to catch brake fluid.
- Loosen the nut, and the brake line will be loose. Remove the two bolts, and the wheel cylinder will come off. Add the new one by first tightening up the brake line, then putting the bolts back in place. Torque to 10-15 ft. lbs. Use anti-seize on the threads. Screw it into place, and the cylinder is replaced.
- Now, take the pins out of the old cylinder. Clean them or replace them as needed before putting them into the cylinder.
- Use the emergency brake arm (cleaned) and reattach it to the new brake shoe. It will clip on the same way it came off. You can also add the adjuster lever and pin at this stage.
- Use anti-seize on the brake backing plate (be cautious not to use too much).
- Check the brake shoes. They will be different sizes, so you want to put them on in the right location. The longer one goes in the rear. The shorter goes in the front.
- Connect the parking brake. Slide it into place and snap it in place.
- Attach the shoes with the backing pin. Use the spring and cap, replacing it in the opposite way that you took it out. Attach the second shoe with the same process.
- Now, use the parking brake link (cleaned) and add the springs to put it in place.
- At the bottom of the brakes, use your self-adjuster. Loosen it, so it spins freely. The threads should be lubricated. Attach it to the brake shoe behind the adjuster arm.
- Now, add the spring through the hole in the two shoes at the bottom.
- The self-adjusting cable attaches at the hook of the spring onto the self-adjusting lever.
- Now, take your first spring and slide it onto the cable guide and attach it to the brake shoe. Route the cable over that guide, and you can attach the parking cable to the spring pin.
- The springs are tough, but attach them both to the spring pin. You can use a wrench with a closed end if you’re having trouble with the spring.
- Now, all the springs are in. Inspect it to make sure it matches your pictures and that everything is seated correctly.
- Spray the inside of the drum with brake clean first.
- Next, use a metal wire brush to knock off any rust.
- Add a layer of anti-seize to the hub surface. and add the drum back on.
Bleeding the Brakes
At this point, you need to bleed the brakes. Using a wrench and brake fluid, remove the cap from the bleeder. Use a closed-end wrench and connect the hose over the valve. Turn the wrench to open the flow of fluid. Press the brakes a few times to get all the air out.
After doing this, any bubbles should be out, so you can tighten the bleeder valve again. Add the cap back. Don’t forget to add more brake fluid to the max line. This fluid should be new and fresh.
Check the pedal to be sure it’s solid and has resistance. Bleed the brakes again if there is a lack of resistance.
Check the drum. It should have some resistance. If there isn’t any, then you need to adjust the star wheel inside.
That’s how you finish a drum brake repair!
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