The Chevrolet Captiva has a number of complaints concerning the electrical system, engine, transmission, drivetrain, and interior accessories. The most common complaint has to do with the battery, which seems to die more frequently and sooner than it should with this vehicle. There are also issues with the battery getting too hot. Alternator failure seems to happen a lot around 60,000 miles and many cases of total transmission failure have been reported around 73,000 miles. Engine problems are numerous for the Captiva. There are issues reported for excessive oil consumption, timing chain failure, engine running rough, and a faulty camshaft actuator sensor. Another very common complaint that seems to happen primarily between 60,000 and 70,000 miles is the key getting stuck in the ignition. A few additional complaints include the instrument panel blacks out, drive train jerks, Stabilitrak randomly engages, and the power windows stop working.
Marlene Frederick
August 11, 2021
I have a problem with getting my key out of the ignition. I left the key in of course and went to get back in and I can't.
Patrick Schiebel
December 27, 2021
I have a 2014 chevrolet Captiva that I had to replace the engine because I have payments on it. It cost me 3200 for the engine and 1200 for the work to be done. I see there was a class action suit for the captiva for 2010 to 2013. The 2014 has the same engine.
Sakie
June 28, 2022
I have a problem with reverse on the Chevrolet Captiva 2.4 and now there's a loss of power going forward
Israel
December 6, 2022
2015 Chev Captiva 2.4L,whe you drive the car during the day in hot temperatures say above 28degrees, the car starts to loose power. You have to stop for 10-20min start again it will drive for 20kms then stops again. But when the temperatures of the environment drops the car moves, I normally travel long distances at night or in the early hours. During the day it is a mess on a long drive. How can I solve this, Possible root cause?
Leo
December 18, 2022
I have problem with my Capiva engine running rough and oil in the intake
Michael
March 4, 2021
Oil leaking from the 2 crankshaft bolts by the rear main. Removed the bolts put seal tight on them put back together still leaks. It all started after the freeze we had. Cleaned pcv valve and under the intake.
Neil
January 19, 2022
In 2010, I purchased a 2012 Chevy Captiva with 90k miles. Within a month the Check Engine light was on, tripping 3 codes: Camshaft sensor, Timing Chain sensor, &Transmission sensor. The light would turn off after a few drive cycles, but the car felt VERY sluggish. Drove it for a year until one day the power locks started to lock and unlock rapidly while I was driving. Traded it in and am laughing at seeing many others with the same issues. This SUV is a complete POS. Don't be fooled by a low price for a seemingly well equipped car.
Mine does that too most of the time I turn the key a split second after putting it in park or restart the car and turn it off again and take the key out right away and the key then will come out.
Taps
December 13, 2022
I bought Chevrolet Captiva LT 2012 last year, it was around 90km mileage. Now it's giving me a hard time, the gauges are idling uncontrollably when the car is in motion and it starts to be sluggish. The door locks also keep shutting on and off. It has also started releasing some smoke from the exhaust.
I have a problem with the coolant temperature sensor (captiva 2011) always stop and I change the sensor but no result working for 2 days and stop again
Abner
June 26, 2022
I have captiva 2011 2.5 the front seat driver does not want to fold from back
I have a 2015 Chevy Captiva,during extremely cold Temps the PCV valve freezes up and it blew the rear seal. There was a service bulletin on models 2013 and before. This is the same exact problem in that service bulletin however GM is apparently not fixing these. I can't afford to pay a shop to fix it.
I have a 2014 Chevy Captiva with 68,x*x miles and it has no problems at all. It still drives very good. If I have a problem in the future I’ll post it. I really like this car and iv had it for years.
Draining the battery and when you start it it is not idling
John Paul
April 4, 2024
I am using Captiva 2020, did not face any issue, but it not fuel efficient.
gaz
August 7, 2023
Had an auto 12 plate, by the time it hit 42k it had had 2 gearboxes an oil cooler, new radiator then the time belt broke writing the car off. A real heap.
My Captiva 2021 model has serviced for recall on Engine cover and A/c fuse replacement. After this recall, my car Engine temperature bar iss hooting up to. This is seriously wrong, in ideal condition engine temperature is almost touching to 100%. This car is not at all reliable.
Jacob
December 26, 2022
Starte problem.
Amber
December 1, 2022
I don't have an answer. I took Extreamly Good Care of my 2012 Captiva LT Spt & at 91,000 I traded it in for a brand new car because I was so sick to dumping$$ in it & no "real answers as to what the problem was" to come out on the other end the SAME ISSUES. Took to 2 differant trusted body shops.They both were baffled. They Advised if I could purchase another new car, even though this is paid for, Do It they said. Because they just said things were acting screwy, tried to trace problems back to the a start & was un able to. And they just were at a lost. "I" was at lost because I never beat on the car driving it wise, never did anything risky with it. I had it from 37,000 to 91,000 & most of the time it sat clean/covered under a big tarp with an except of taking it out every few weeks to drive & put back up. Crazy.
I have a 2012 Chevy Cap, got it at about 90k miles. I have every issue with my car that you just named. I've managed to get the key out every time by rigging the release button behind my steering while. The car seemed amazing for the price, wasn't long after the car seemed sluggish. It the went away, now at about 154k miles my car is now a POS. It shudders at idle, concerning oil consumption but no leaks, extreme shaking when going over 60, almost as if the car is slowing down. I'll hit the highway and the car says I'm doing 60mph but I swear I'm going about 50, and also being passed up by all the other drivers. I love the car it ran good for a while, I even did rideshare with the car, so there was wear and tear down but now when I take the car to dealerships no one can tell me what is actually wrong with. Apparently its a number of different things.
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